Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2027: A New Shape for the Forties
Updated: 27 minutes ago
Ferragamo SS27 — Look 01
Images: Ferragamo official collection archive.
Ferragamo’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection put the waist at the centre of a conversation about control and self-expression. Presented as a coed runway show at Milan’s Triennale Museum on September 26, 2026, according to W’s contemporary report, Maximilian Davis’s collection drew on the 1940s while giving their disciplined clothing a more exposed, tactile character.
The historical thread began with a shoe. Vogue’s Luke Leitch traced Davis’s starting point to Salvatore Ferragamo’s 1947 Invisible Sandal, whose experimental construction led the designer towards Lee Miller, Man Ray and photographic solarisation. That connection provides a useful way to read the collection: familiar forms become less predictable when their surfaces, outlines and degrees of transparency change.
Ferragamo’s official notes describe close-cut, high-waisted tailoring secured with double belts, military pockets on pencil skirts and outerwear, and utility vests beneath suits. ELLE identified the opening look as a double-breasted coatdress pulled into an hourglass by two belts. A detail usually associated with practicality became a device for directing attention, sharpening the relationship between torso, hip and hem.
Material did much of the disruptive work. The house paired translucent rubber and leather shirting with looped silks, leather trains and sequinned drapery. Scarf dressing loosened the outline established by the tailoring. Read together, these choices suggest a wardrobe organised around changing degrees of exposure, with the body alternately held, traced and released rather than consistently concealed or displayed.
W’s Kristen Bateman reported rounded shoulders, supple suede safari jackets and glossy croc-effect outerwear in chocolate and olive tones. Her account also noted a steel-blue trench and a scarlet gown breaking through the largely neutral palette. The colour strategy gives the collection a clear rhythm: earthier shades support its utilitarian references, while isolated stronger hues interrupt that sobriety.
Menswear extended the proposition beyond the fitted waist. Hypebeast described roomy suits, broad-shouldered blazers and trousers pleated at the front, styled with vests and leather ties. Those proportions offered a second expression of the period, allowing volume and layering to sit alongside the more body-conscious womenswear. The shared language was tailoring, but its relationship to the wearer was deliberately variable.
Footwear kept the archive physically present. Ferragamo’s collection notes connect curved stiletto heels, revised Vara bows and new sandal and slingback forms to the F wedge. Art Deco-inspired ornament appeared on satin mules. The historical reference therefore reached the collection’s foundations, giving the ready-to-wear experiment an identifiable connection to the house’s craft.
W reported that Anok Yai closed in a sequinned dress. That final move towards evening glamour widened the collection’s register without erasing its emphasis on the body. The strongest argument here is the consistency of the transformation: belts, transparency, drapery and sculptural heels all change how a familiar garment frames its wearer. Davis made the forties useful as a design problem rather than a fixed dress code.
Official Spring/Summer 2027 runway gallery
Selected collection photographs: 10 looks — 01–10.
Ferragamo SS27 — Look 02
Ferragamo SS27 — Look 03
Ferragamo SS27 — Look 04
Ferragamo SS27 — Look 05
Ferragamo SS27 — Look 06
Ferragamo SS27 — Look 07
Ferragamo SS27 — Look 08
Ferragamo SS27 — Look 09
Ferragamo SS27 — Look 10
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