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Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018: Sarah Burton’s Metamorphosis and Soft Armour — head and shoulders at the runway

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018: Sarah Burton’s Metamorphosis and Soft Armour

Oct 27
2 min read

Updated: 6 days ago

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018: Sarah Burton’s Metamorphosis and Soft Armour — opening image matching the cover, model face visible

Presented during Paris Fashion Week on 5 March 2018, Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018 collection explored transformation through both the discipline of tailoring and the delicacy of the natural world. Butterflies, beetles and the idea of protective clothing informed a runway that moved between hard edges and fragile surfaces.


Jean Campbell walks the Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018 Paris runway in a look by Sarah Burton. Photo: Christopher Macsurak, CC BY 2.0.

Runway photograph: Christopher Macsurak / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0. Resized for web display.


Metamorphosis as a Design Language

The collection developed from an idea Burton described as extreme nature: a movement from protective forms into the emerging beauty of butterflies and insects. A rigorous black tuxedo could begin as almost military tailoring, then give way to unexpected texture, delicately worked surfaces or dramatic wings. Structured coats, sharp shoulders and leather bodices created an armour-like profile without diminishing the garments’ feminine movement.


Fabric, Silhouette and the Work of the Atelier

Butterfly markings appeared in printed and worked surfaces while beadwork captured the iridescence of insects. Long fringes, fluid evening dresses and carefully engineered panels gave the body an impression of constant change. Craftsmanship was central: British Vogue documented an embroidered dress with 1,483 individually worked bugs representing 37 species, an extraordinary demonstration of technical labour behind the show’s organic imagery.


Ten Photographs from the Runway

This gallery documents the collection’s changing proportions and finishes, from closely tailored forms to more expressive runway looks. The photographs are reproduced with attribution under Creative Commons Attribution 2.0; they are not official press photographs supplied by the fashion house.

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018: Sarah Burton’s Metamorphosis and Soft Armour

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018: Sarah Burton’s Metamorphosis and Soft Armour

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018: Sarah Burton’s Metamorphosis and Soft Armour

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018: Sarah Burton’s Metamorphosis and Soft Armour

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018: Sarah Burton’s Metamorphosis and Soft Armour

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018: Sarah Burton’s Metamorphosis and Soft Armour

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018: Sarah Burton’s Metamorphosis and Soft Armour

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018: Sarah Burton’s Metamorphosis and Soft Armour


Why the 2018 Collection Matters

Burton’s approach preserved the emotion and craft associated with McQueen while asserting her own language of empathy and wearability. The collection was not simply a celebration of decorative nature: it asked how clothing might protect, transform and express multiple facets of identity. That balance between the practical and the fantastical remains one of the most productive tensions in the house’s design history.


Official Film: Autumn/Winter 2018 Campaign

This video is the house’s official Autumn/Winter 2018 campaign film, not footage of the 5 March runway show.


Sources and Photography Credits

All ten photographs: © Christopher Macsurak, licensed under Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic (CC BY 2.0); cropped only where selected by the gallery viewer and otherwise resized for web display. Rights holders do not endorse this publication.

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