Jitrois Spring/Summer 2027 P.L.A.Y.: Leather Steps Into Daylight
At Paris Fashion Week on 2 October 2026, Jitrois introduced P.L.A.Y. (Put Love All Around You), a Spring/Summer 2027 presentation for women and men that moved the house's signature second-skin leather out of the darkness and into daylight. The concept turns the memory of a late-night party into a summer wardrobe, balancing the intimacy of leather with colour, movement and a distinctly social spirit.
From the Black Leather Ball to the morning after
The label's starting point was an imaginative question: how would Jean-Claude Jitrois's Black Leather Ball look if it continued into the morning? Those gatherings, held at the founder's home in the 2000s, inspired the creative team to picture dancers leaving the familiar black dress code behind and carrying the energy of the night onto the street, into the sun and across festival grounds.
This change of setting helps explain the collection's tone. Rather than dressing leather exclusively as evening armour, Jitrois brings close-fitting silhouettes into conversation with lighter surfaces and playful detailing. Stretch leather remains central, but suede, fluid fringe and vivid colour invite the wearer to move.
A vocabulary built from leather, suede and embroidered detail
The womenswear includes second-skin dresses, lace-up corsets, close-cut capri trousers and long skirts with dramatic slits. A multicoloured fringe dress evokes the theatrical craft of Bob Mackie, while a black fringe jacket uses leather strips set on a silk foundation to make the surface respond to the body's movement. The house also describes a bolero embroidered with roses in delicate ladder-stitch openwork, paired with a zipped corset top.
Gathered leather blouses introduce a different kind of structure: puffed sleeves, ruffled cuffs and peplums tied with bows offset the material's fitted reputation. The makers translate another urban reference into embroidery by drawing on layers of torn posters, with individual elements hand-embroidered and cut. Reversible capes and pieces with eyelets and lacing extend that language of transformable clothing.
Menswear shares the same willingness to experiment. The official collection notes identify chestnut stretch suede, sharply abbreviated shorts, second-skin tops, leather jumpsuits and flashes of blue and black python among the propositions. A crystal-covered Jitrois hoodie provides a playful contrast to the sleek tailoring and body-hugging construction.
Colour gives the collection its daylight
Black anchors the palette, but petal pink, mint, denim blue and chestnut lead the collection into a softer register. Red, fuchsia and yellow intensify that shift, culminating in the exuberance of multicoloured fringe. The house connects these juxtapositions to its designers' summer encounters and musical experiences, imagining a wardrobe for moments when the evening has become the next day.
The proposition is coherent because the clothes remain recognisably Jitrois. The defining technical achievement is still supple leather shaped close to the body; its new purpose is the sense of freedom, spontaneity and personal encounter that P.L.A.Y. places around it.
Original collection photographs
The following selection uses original Jitrois SS27 images already held in the icönik editorial media library. The complete original presentation features 49 looks on the house's official site.
Production and photography credits
Artistic direction: Jean-Claude Jitrois. Creative direction: Tristan Van Bruwaene and Jay Wilson. Styling: Mylene Colona and Emilie Griere. Hair and makeup: Natsuki Oneyama and Maeva Gomes. Production and casting: Celine Rey.
Photographers credited in Jitrois's official P.L.A.Y. presentation: Jordan Rossi (RKN co Production), Motun Soya, Marcus Lister, Olly Dundas and Maxence Gautier. The maison does not specify individual photographer assignments for each of the selected looks; these are collective collection credits rather than unverifiable per-frame bylines.
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