SHUSHU/TONG Shanghai Spring/Summer 2027 'Darling Melancholy': French Cinema in Candy Colours
SHUSHU/TONG’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Darling Melancholy, builds a wardrobe out of apparent opposites: demure collars and exposed midriffs, sugary colour and stern dark tailoring, delicate lace and skirts with an exaggerated volume. Vogue’s report identifies Jacques Demy’s 1964 musical The Umbrellas of Cherbourg as a reference and describes coloured umbrellas placed on the audience’s seats. The clothes translate that cinematic starting point into something more specific than a general exercise in nostalgia.
A Palette With Structure
Lemon, mint, pale pink and cornflower blue recur throughout the official runway gallery, often edged or interrupted by navy, chocolate and black. The darker colours do useful work. A lace vest can look almost weightless until a dark polo collar and contrasting waistband give it a firm outline. A pink knit worn with a white shirt similarly uses the shirt’s collar and hem as framing devices. The styling makes sweetness feel assembled and deliberate.
Floral openwork appears as straight skirts, sleeveless tops and abbreviated dresses. One yellow ensemble layers a lace V-neck over a dark collared top and repeats the same floral pattern in a transparent knee-length skirt. White trim and a small bow underline the waist. The visible layers are important: the collection repeatedly asks the viewer to read an outfit as separate pieces, even when its colours and patterns initially suggest a single dress.
From Schoolroom Order to Balloon Volume
There is a steady counterpoint of tailored and knitted daywear. Cropped jackets, compact cardigans, polo tops and narrow skirts supply a controlled line between the more decorative looks. Blue and white shirts emerge from dark layers; abbreviated hems and bare waists stop the combinations from becoming overly proper. The succession of shorts, cropped trousers and pencil skirts also gives the show a broader range than its most photogenic party dresses might imply.
Then the silhouette expands. In a pink sleeveless dress, a close-fitting bodice opens into rounded hips and a gathered hem, finished with a bow at the front. A white collar peeks out at the neckline. Nearby versions use mint or white, while an orange balloon skirt is paired with a much smaller, darker upper half. The volume stays concentrated around the hip and thigh, preserving the graphic clarity of the body above it.
Accessories Set the Tone
Knee-high patterned socks and stirrup-like leg coverings extend the layered construction down to the shoes. Bow-trimmed sandals, sharply shaped glasses and small structured bags keep adding precise points of contrast. A bright turquoise bag against yellow lace makes the palette more vivid; a white shoulder bag beside a pink dress makes it quieter. Headbands and long, carefully arranged hair reinforce the collection’s composed surface.
What holds these combinations together is an exact sense of scale. Bows can be tiny markers on a waist or much more conspicuous closures near a hem. Collars remain crisp even beside floating lace. The result is a collection whose romantic mood is carried by construction and proportion as much as by flowers or pastel colour.
Runway Gallery
Official Spring/Summer 2027 collection gallery: 66 runway photographs supplied on the SHUSHU/TONG website. Images: courtesy of SHUSHU/TONG.
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